Around the corner from the Eiffel Tower sits a lovely shop that smells of Provence and is filled with sweet and savory delicacies derived from ancient recipes that date back to medieval times. Ears of the Good Goddess (ancient Rome) to hearts of the Little Albert (fourteenth century), the Petit Duc offers nougat with almonds, pralines, shortbread biscuits, Damask pink calissons (almond paste candy from Aix en Provence), Verdun sugared almonds, crystallized flowers and leaves in tins, and honey from the Hautes Alps. Packaged in decorative wooden and metal boxes, transparent tubes filled with treats, these make special take-home gifts.
Never tried calissons? Among the first known references was in Martino di Canale’s Chronicle of the Venetians in 1275. An earlier 12th century text written in Medieval Latin used the word calisone to refer to a cake made with almonds and flour. Some trace the introduction of calissons to Provence around the mid-15th century at the second wedding of King Rene of Anjou. Others suggest that it was not introduced in its modern form until the 16th century, as this was when almonds became an established crop in Aix-en-Provence.
Whatever you choose to believe, a sample taste will tell you this is something special, something hard to replicate in your kitchen. The oldest of their marzipan recipes is composed of rose petals with the exact distribution of 3 drops per 16 kg.
Ask to see their back showroom, a formal parlour. The shopkeepers speak English and will make you feel right at home.
Tuesday to Saturday from 10 AM to 7.30 PM
Sunday and Monday from 10 AM to 1PM and from 3PM to 7.30 PM
The 30 collections of haute couture fashion for autumn/winter 2014/15 have officially wrapped up. It then starts all over on September 23 when the Ready-to-Wear shows begin. Mode à Paris, Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode has all the info and a few photo of the runway hightlights.
Haute couture is worn by an exclusive elite of the world’s richest women. A single garment can cost tens of thousands of dollars due to the uniqueness and level of craftsmanship. It is a legally protected appellation in Paris, subject to strict criteria such as the hours of work carried out by hand, the limited number of pieces and the size of a house’s workforce.
Start at the top for one of Paris’s most dramatic dioramas. Then descend the colonnade stairs and walk to the central dome to find physicist Léon Foucault’s 1851 pendulum demonstrating the rotation of the earth.
Victor Hugo, Jacques-Germain Soufflot, Voltaire, Marie Curie (the only woman),Jean Moulin, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Alexandre Dumas, Émile Zola,André Malraux, Jean Jaurès, Pierre Curie, Louis Braille, Jean Monnet,Victor Schœlcher, Félix Éboué, Léon Gambetta, Gaspard Monge, René Cassin, Marie François Sadi Carnot, Nicolas de Caritat, marquis de Condorcet, Lazare Carnot, Jean Lannes, Joseph-Louis Lagrange, Henri Grégoire, Paul Langevin, Jean Baptiste Perrin, Jean-Étienne-Marie Portalis, Joseph-Marie Vien, Claude Juste Alexandre Legrand, Pierre Jean George Cabanis, François Séverin Marceau-Desgraviers, Jean-Nicolas Démeunier, Paul Painlevé, Jan Willem de Winter, Charles Pierre Claret de Fleurieu, Justin Bonaventure Morard de Galles, Giovanni Battista Caprara, Jean Reynier, Théophile Corret de la Tour d’Auvergne,Jean Baptiste Treilhard, Nicolas-Marie Songis des Courbons, Alexandre-Antoine Hureau de Sénarmont, Louis-Vincent-Joseph Le Blond de Saint-Hilaire.
In 2002, in an elaborate but solemn procession, six Republican Guards carried the coffin of Alexandre Dumas (1802–1870), the author of The Three Musketeers to the Panthéon. Draped in a blue-velvet cloth inscribed with the Musketeers’ motto: “Un pour tous, tous pour un” (“One for all, all for one,”) the remains had been transported from their original internment site in Aisne, France. In his speech, President Jacques Chirac stated that an injustice was being corrected with the proper honoring of one of France’s greatest authors.
The 1950s was haute couture’s golden age. A new exhibit at the Palais Galleria retraces the evolution of the female form through the decade 1947–1957: from the birth of the New Look to the death of Christian Dior and the advent of Yves Saint Laurent.
Petticoats, corolla skirts, pointed shoes, bright-coloured floral and striped prints, wasp-waist suits with straight skirts, strapless sheath dresses, cocktail dresses, rock crystal embroidery, Chanel’s straight lined simple suits: such was the couture of the fifties.
Lucky you if you’re in Paris now or will be coming before November 2. Les années 50 : La mode en France, 1947-1957, is at Palais Galliera, 10, avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 16th arrondissement. Open Monday to Sunday, 10am to 6pm. Open Thursday evenings until 9pm.
First two vintage fashion photos by Henry Clarke
They vary from “superb” to “mediocre” to “duds” so to help you find la creme de la creme of baguettes here are some addresses. Check your arrondissement and follow your nose to these award-winning boulangeries. Ask or point to the “tradition”, “l’ancienne”, or “baguette de campagne” which are all very close in price and most likely never costing more than a euro fifty. Such a deal.
This year’s Best Paris Baguette winner:
Délices du Palais
60 boulevard Brune, 75014
Porte de Vanves (13), Porte d’Orléans (4)
Closed Wednesdays. Baker Antonio Teixeira, a native of Portugal, will supply the Elysées Palace for the coming year, and anywhere else that President Holland chooses to wave his baguette.
Pascal Barillon (Au Levain d’Antan), 6 rue des Abbesses, 75018
Gaétan Romp 14 rue de la Michodière, 75002
Pascal Jamin (Les Saveurs du 20ème), 120 rue de Bagnolet, 75020
Gontran Cherrier (Gontran Cherrier), 22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018
M. Risser (Le Fournil du Village), 12 place J.B. Clément, 75018
Gilles Levaslot (Les Gourmandises d’Eiffel), 187 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Jean-Noël Julien (Julien), 75 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
Philippe Marache, 92 av de la République Paris, 75011
Philippe Bogner, 204 rue des Pyrénées, 75020
Le Grenier à Pain Saint-Amand, 33 bis rue Saint-Amand, 75015
Au Paradis du Gourmand, 156 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014
Boulangerie Raphaëlle, 1 rue Feutrier, 75018
Boulangerie Damiani, 125 avenue du Clichy, 75017
Christian Vabret, 27 rue Francois Miron, 75004
Maison Cailleaud, 104 Cours de Vincennes, 75012
Yosuké Fijié from Maison Landemeine, 56 rue du Clichy, 75009
Dominique Saibron, 77 avenue du Géneral Leclerc, 75014
Le Grenier à Pain Lafayette, 91 rue Faubourg Poissonière, 75009
La Parisienne, 12 rue Coustou, 75018
Claude Besnier, 40 rue du Bourgogne, 75007
Forget the Pizza Hut chain. Here are some hip pizzerias for a trip down memory lane a la Italiana. Gooey cheese to fresh green toppings, a votre service, ciao, bon appetito! Did I mention cheap?
22, avenue Trudaine, 9th arr
Métro: Pigalle, Anvers
20, avenue Trudaine, 9th arr
Le Golfe de Naples
8, Rue Clément, 6th arr
Métro: Odeon, Mabillon or St Germain des Pres
61, rue des Martyrs, 9th arr
Métro: Pigalle or Anvers
43 rue Saint Denis, 1st arr
Pizza San Antonio
1 rue Verrerie, 4th arr
67 Rue Bichat, 10th arr
76 rue Mazarine
24, rue Blondel, 75002 Paris, France
For a quick bite or a lingering lunch with a million dollar view, museum restaurants are a smart choice. Cafe Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli, surely comes in number one with its spectacular setting in front of the Louvre’s glass pyramid.
Café des Techniques in the Musée des Arts et Métiers is open every day except Monday and features a Sunday brunch starting at 11:30, 60 rue Réaumur. You don’t have buy a museum ticket to get in but don’t try to access the collections when you finish, the guards might pounce and make a scene.
The Palais de Tokyo museum’s, Tokyo Eat comes in second with it’s spectac Eiffel Tower view. Try the large vegetarian platter with caramelized baked vegetables; salmon and spinach lasagna; and veal piccata accompanied by tiny ravioli. No museum ticket is necessary. 13 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, Métro: Iéna/Alma-Marceau.
The Musée d’Orsay has two restaurants worth visiting, 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 7th, Métro: Solférino. Visit them for their unique interiors and good food.
Musée du Quai Branly’s Les Ombres rooftop restaurant was designed by French star architect Jean Nouvel, right down to the glassware and cutlery. No museum ticket is necessary. A three-course lunch menu is 38 euros and the Eiffel Tower view comes with it.
From Ombre’s menu:
ketchup de tomate, amandes effilées et citron confit
Riz vénéré, tagliatelles de seiche,
écume de verveine, riquette
Cannelloni de courgette et tourteau,
gelée de yuzu, crème de fenouil et aneth, pomme granny smith
Asperges blanches, béarnaise, crème d’estragon,
Foie gras de canard mi-cuit, compotée de rhubarbe
Located on the eastern side of Paris at the end of the Vincennes metro line sits one of the tallest and best preserved fortified castles in Europe. Erected between the 14th and 17th centuries, its purpose was to shelter the royal family, entire domestic staff and necessary army for its defense.
It is composed of a long surrounding wall, protected by three gates and six 42 metre-high towers, which stretch over more than half a mile and protects a rectangular space of several acres. This interior square holds the keep, the civilian, administrative and military buildings and a chapel. In the Middle Ages, all of these elements together made it possible for several thousands of people to live here. A wide moat and two drawbridges ensure its safety.
The château was definitively abandoned as a royal residence when the King elected Versailles as his new home around 1670. You can get there by metro and RER: Line 1: Château de Vincennes or by bus: Château de Vincennes station: Line 46, 56. They’re open Monday through Saturday, 10 to 6. Address: 1 Avenue de Paris, Vincennes. Telephone: +33 1 48 08 31 20
Move over Disneyland Paris, this is the real thing. Take the kids.