Proclaimed “the king of all cheeses” during the Congress of Vienna in 1968, this soft cow’s milk cheese has been produced in the Seine-et-Marne since the seventh century. It was a favorite of both the emperor Charlemagne and King Henry IV. Although Brie-style cheeses are produced all over the world, the oldest and most popular varieties, Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun, are required by French law to be made with raw milk of the region (appellation d’Origine Controlee)—and thus are prohibited from crossing into U.S. borders. No rules in the U.S. govern what can be called a ‘Brie.’ A local importer trademarked “Brie de Meaux” in the 70’s allowing anyone to slap a label onto cheeses that are made with pasteurized milk resulting in a different texture and flavor. Six varieties are produced in France. The final taste depends on the size of the mold used to contain the coagulated raw milk curd and the length of time it ages. In its prime, the velvety white rind of Meaux should smell like a fresh, damp forest, while the interior tastes of butter and hazelnuts. Brie de Melun has a stronger, saltier flavor that is also tart. The crust (“la croute fleuri”), which develops when penicillium mold grows on it after it’s been rubbed with salt, is meant to be eaten. Cheesemakers say the crust is both good for your health, and essential to taste. Here are some cheese shops where you can shop for your “wow” moment. Androuet 134, rue Mouffetard – Paris 5; 37, rue de Verneuil – Paris 7; 93, rue de Cambronne – Paris 15; 17, rue des Belles Feuilles – Paris 16; 1, rue Bois le Vent – Paris 16; 23, rue de la Terrasse – Paris 17; 13, rue Daguerre – Paris 14 www.androuet.com
Fromagerie Damrémont – Chez Virginie 54 Rue Damrémont, 75018
Fromagerie Quatrehomme 9 rue du Poteau 75018 Paris www.quatrehomme.fr
Fromagerie Laurent Dubois 2 Rue de Lourmel, 75015
Ferme Saint Hubert 36 Rue de Rochechouart, 75009
Fromager Marie-Anne Cantin 12 Rue du Champ de Mars, 75007
Barthélémy 51 Rue de Grenelle, 75007
You’ll spy many of these shops on your walking tours in the No Worries Paris guidebook.
After trudging around the flea market all morning you’ll want to take a well deserved break. Head for the Paul Bert market and there you’ll find Philippe Starck’s restaurant La Cocotte (sweetheart, my little chickadee).
The 250-seat cafeteria/industrial/chic eatery will turn your shopping experience into an event. All the furniture was sourced within 260 feet from the restaurant so the carbon imprint is almost negative. There are large tables, deep sofas and plenty of books. The eclectic mix of finds and comfort food make this cozy nest a hangout you’ll find hard to leave.
Ma Cocotte 106 rue des Rosiers 93400 Saint-Ouen
LE PLATS DU JOUR
POULET FERMIER DE CHALLANS À LA BROCHE :
POUR MOI TOUT SEUL : 23€ OU ENTIER POUR 4 : 85€
SOURIS D’AGNEAU DE SEPT HEURES,
HARICOTS COCO EN COCOTTE 26,50€
BAVETTE “BLACK ANGUS” À L’ÉCHALOTE 29€
TARTARE DE BOEUF, CLASSIQUE OU SNACKÉ 19€
FILET MIGNON DE PORC AUX POMMES 23,50€
LE CLASSIQUE CHEESEBURGER 22€
SAINT-JACQUES RÔTIES, RISOTTO ET JUS DE VIANDE 29€
MA COCOTTE DE LÉGUMES EN POT AU FEU 15,50€
From the BBC:
Justice Minister Christine Taubira said the dead cartoonists were the “guardian angels, those who watch out to make sure democracy was working” and the “face of France, obnoxiously assassinated. You were dreaming of being free, we will continue your dream.”
At Georges Wolinski’s funeral, his daughter Elsa said his ideals would live on.
“I’m beginning to realise that he is gone,” she said. “But as I said before, they’ve killed a man and not his ideas. So here we are. We stand here and will continue to defend the principles of Charlie Hebdo.”
Yesterday the French battled to get their hands on the “survivors’ issue”, which sold out before more copies of an eventual print run of five million hit newsstands.
Snow, rain and cold wind doesn’t stop Parisian women from keeping their chic streetstyle, albeit bundled up. Try to coordinate some basic looks to pack that are color coordinated. Though the euro has lost some value lately, clothing, shoes and accessories aren’t cheap to buy here. Start with basic black, add a cashmere scarf, the best boots you can afford (break them in), as well as some walking shoes that are tricked out, well made and comfortable. Make sure your coat doesn’t weigh you down, and keep your head warm with a wool knit beanie or hood.
Once you have a street uniform for your daily walks you’re good to board the plane. Upon arrival fill it in with whatever catches your fancy… a fashionable color that hasn’t yet reached your city, a French designer je ne sais quoi, avante garde jewelry from Agatha or a Marais boutique.
Reserve room in your suitcase for purchases and gifts you’ll want to bring back. Mailing excess baggage home is definitely not advised: $$$.
First things first: here’s where you can find a big juicy burger, with smokey bbq sauce, melted grueyere, fat mushrooms, gourmet bun, crispy onion rings, thick cut bacon for around 10.50 euros. Downside, there can be a 40 minute wait and you have to know where it will be parked. Here’s where they’re going to be in the next few days:
Le Camion Qui Fume (The Smoking Truck), owned by Kristin Frederick, a California native who graduated from French culinary school is the real deal. Track them down for a trip down memory lane with a twist a la francaise.
Come to Mamma! Tell them No Worries Paris sent you.
After feasting on this filling treat you’ll need to take a walk. Consult your No Worries Paris guidebook for some ideas. They’re are some great ones surrounding the truck.
Normally admission to the Hotel de Ville is by guided tour only. But, once a year, Paris’s mayor opens the doors to the public on Heritage Days. This year I was lucky enough to spend three hours at City Hall wandering the halls dazzled by the crystal chandeliers, stained glass, sculptures, paintings, elaborate ceilings framed in gold, adorned with pink cherubs, winged horses, historic insignias, French portraits.
The library and council room were open for inspection. Many works from the collections of the Municipal Contemporary Art Fund added a visual twist in many of the salons and governmental offices. In the back of my mind was the fact that the inside of the building was totally destroyed by fire during the 1871 revolution. It took 19 years to reconstruct and furnish this treasure. Make it to next year’s open house or schedule a guided tour.
The Protocol Department organizes free visits of the Hôtel de Ville‘s Reception Rooms, with commentary, from Monday to Friday.
For groups contact the department at 00 33 (1) 42 76 54 04. Book approximately two months in advance – but late-comers can also try their luck! Languages: French, English, German, Spanish, Italian, Russian Duration: 1 hour
For individuals a weekly visit is available in French (two weekly in summer). Groups can accommodate 30 people max. The dates and times are fixed on the Thursday preceding the visit.
Register at the Hospitality Suite, 29 Rue de Rivoli (4th arr) from Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7pm. or call 00 33 (1) 42 76 43 43 (Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm).
Or call the Protocol Department: 00 33 (1) 42 76 50 49 or 00 33 (1) 42 76 54 04
Access for visits is at 5 Rue Lobau (4th), at the back of the building.
Metro: Hôtel de Ville.