A few suggestions just down the hill from Sacre Coeur. All the rage now are tapas (french style) and you’ll find the most exquisite at chef Geoffroy Maillard’s Extension, 16, rue Eugène Sue, 33 1 42 59 43 24 Metro: Chateau Rouge, Jules Joffrin

Chéri Bibi on the east side of the hill combines arty flea market decor, traditional French cooking and sensible prices. 15 rue André del Sarte, metro: Barbes-Rochechouart. phone 01 42 54 88 96

Le Grand 8,8 rue Lamarck serves unpretentious bistro fare, the kind of food you’d find in a Midi square. If you’re looking for comfort food, sign in here. Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt. phone 01 42 55 04 55