Pitch black skies as I emerged from the metro on Saturday around 9:30. The esplanade of Palais Chaillot is sprinkled with tourists who don’t realize that the cedar fence taking up half the terrace is temporary, better photos just a few steps down toward the Eiffel Tower. I positioned myself well and although crammed against the railing with visitors flashing their selfies and requests from those without smartphones to take their point-and-shoot portraits, I got my required shots.

But hark, I hear music! Is it just another street performer doing their break dancing thang? No, it’s the Argentine tango. A few more steps down the terrace on the grand foyer are close to 50 couples seriously dancing. Cheek to cheek in silhouette they all look like professionals. An audience just as large is watching and illuminated by the tower and Palais spotlights the whole spectacle magical, mesmerizing. I have to say, the Eiffel Tower itself got second billing in my book that evening.