A sample page that takes you on a walk to Hotel de Sens, 1 Rue du Figuier, Paris 4th. This arrondissement oozes history and deserves at least half a day with an accompanying picnic along the Seine.
Did you know? We love Paris so much we wrote a guidebook for it. Take it on your next trip to Paris and put it to the test. You’ll see all the best sites and learn a little history along the way. You can buy it on Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble, Powells.com, or directly from us (signed) at Trailblazer Travel Books.
Proclaimed “the king of all cheeses” during the Congress of Vienna in 1968, this soft cow’s milk cheese has been produced in the Seine-et-Marne since the seventh century. It was a favorite of both the emperor Charlemagne and King Henry IV. Although Brie-style cheeses are produced all over the world, the oldest and most popular varieties, Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun, are required by French law to be made with raw milk of the region (appellation d’Origine Controlee)—and thus are prohibited from crossing into U.S. borders. No rules in the U.S. govern what can be called a ‘Brie.’ A local importer trademarked “Brie de Meaux” in the 70’s allowing anyone to slap a label onto cheeses that are made with pasteurized milk resulting in a different texture and flavor. Six varieties are produced in France. The final taste depends on the size of the mold used to contain the coagulated raw milk curd and the length of time it ages. In its prime, the velvety white rind of Meaux should smell like a fresh, damp forest, while the interior tastes of butter and hazelnuts. Brie de Melun has a stronger, saltier flavor that is also tart. The crust (“la croute fleuri”), which develops when penicillium mold grows on it after it’s been rubbed with salt, is meant to be eaten. Cheesemakers say the crust is both good for your health, and essential to taste. Here are some cheese shops where you can shop for your “wow” moment. Androuet 134, rue Mouffetard – Paris 5; 37, rue de Verneuil – Paris 7; 93, rue de Cambronne – Paris 15; 17, rue des Belles Feuilles – Paris 16; 1, rue Bois le Vent – Paris 16; 23, rue de la Terrasse – Paris 17; 13, rue Daguerre – Paris 14 www.androuet.com
Fromagerie Damrémont – Chez Virginie 54 Rue Damrémont, 75018
Fromagerie Quatrehomme 9 rue du Poteau 75018 Paris www.quatrehomme.fr
Fromagerie Laurent Dubois 2 Rue de Lourmel, 75015
Ferme Saint Hubert 36 Rue de Rochechouart, 75009
Fromager Marie-Anne Cantin 12 Rue du Champ de Mars, 75007
Barthélémy 51 Rue de Grenelle, 75007
You’ll spy many of these shops on your walking tours in the No Worries Paris guidebook.
After trudging around the flea market all morning you’ll want to take a well deserved break. Head for the Paul Bert market and there you’ll find Philippe Starck’s restaurant La Cocotte (sweetheart, my little chickadee).
The 250-seat cafeteria/industrial/chic eatery will turn your shopping experience into an event. All the furniture was sourced within 260 feet from the restaurant so the carbon imprint is almost negative. There are large tables, deep sofas and plenty of books. The eclectic mix of finds and comfort food make this cozy nest a hangout you’ll find hard to leave.
106 rue des Rosiers
LE PLATS DU JOUR
POULET FERMIER DE CHALLANS À LA BROCHE :
POUR MOI TOUT SEUL : 23€ OU ENTIER POUR 4 : 85€
SOURIS D’AGNEAU DE SEPT HEURES,
HARICOTS COCO EN COCOTTE 26,50€
BAVETTE “BLACK ANGUS” À L’ÉCHALOTE 29€
TARTARE DE BOEUF, CLASSIQUE OU SNACKÉ 19€
FILET MIGNON DE PORC AUX POMMES 23,50€
LE CLASSIQUE CHEESEBURGER 22€
SAINT-JACQUES RÔTIES, RISOTTO ET JUS DE VIANDE 29€
MA COCOTTE DE LÉGUMES EN POT AU FEU 15,50€
Snow, rain and cold wind doesn’t stop Parisian women from keeping their chic streetstyle, albeit bundled up. Try to coordinate some basic looks to pack that are color coordinated. Though the euro has lost some value lately, clothing, shoes and accessories aren’t cheap to buy here. Start with basic black, add a cashmere scarf, the best boots you can afford (break them in), as well as some walking shoes that are tricked out, well made and comfortable. Make sure your coat doesn’t weigh you down, and keep your head warm with a wool knit beanie or hood.
Once you have a street uniform for your daily walks you’re good to board the plane. Upon arrival fill it in with whatever catches your fancy… a fashionable color that hasn’t yet reached your city, a French designer je ne sais quoi, avante garde jewelry from Agatha or a Marais boutique.
Reserve room in your suitcase for purchases and gifts you’ll want to bring back. Mailing excess baggage home is definitely not advised: $$$.
The Warsaw Fountain is great “selfie” territory. In summer the water cannons run every hour and in the remaining months run irregularly, sometimes not at all. Freezing temperatures crank them in the “off” position.
The view from the terrace where you’ll get your quintissential shot for posterity.
No snow yet but ice skating is ON right now in Paris. The incredible setting is the Grand Palais. For 15 euros (adults) and 10 euros (children 3 to 12) you can strap on skates which are included in the price and glide around under the fanciful glass roof. Musical animations plus light show at night, hot drinks, catering points and at night it turns into a dance floor. Who can ask for anything more.
Le Grand Palais des Glaces – Avenue Winston churchill – 75008
Metro 1 and 13 Champs-Élysées – Clemenceau
A one-year trial smoking ban in three playgrounds of the Parc de Montsouris has been initiated in Paris. Giant ashtrays have been installed at the entrances to the three play areas. The initiative is likely to be extended to other outdoor public spaces. The measure was introduced recently as part of a government-sponsored campaign to reduce the high number of smoking-related deaths in France, around 73,000. Those breaching the playground ban will be given formal warnings and fines will be introduced at a later stage.
Electronic cigarettes, which have become extremely popular in France, will most probably be banned in some public places next year according to the French Health Minister, Marisol Touraine.
Smoking is now technically banned in all inside public places in France, including cafes, restaurants, stations and museums. Next up: plain cigarette packaging will be introduced along with a ban on smoking in cars carrying children under 12.
Une petite promenande in the Butte-aux-Cailles district, this quaint corner of Paris built around 1925, is hard to find but worth the effort. The beautiful street names match the charm of the village: Rue des Glycines (wisteria), rue des Orchidées, rue des Iris, rue des Liserons, rue des Volubilis.
Cross the Parc Montsouris and exit on the east side. Take rue Liard, then rue Auguste Lancon. After about 200m, take rue des Glycines on your right. Aaah, inhale, tiptoe down the cobbled streets, you’re suddenly in the French countryside. But please, don’t disturb the residents. With a bit of luck, one of the local residents’ cats will walk alongside you before going back to chase the butterflies.