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Category Archives: French food and wine

A Paris pique-nique en plein air

20 Tuesday Jun 2017

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine, Paris guide, paris patisseries, Paris shopping, Paris tips, Paris travel

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charcuteries, French picnic food, Paris picnic

picnicRenoir

No doubt about it, the French love weekend meals outdoors in the fresh air.  The ritual can last hours and depending on consumption of wine, even longer. Picnic spots are numerous. I like Bercy, Parc Montsouris, Champs de Mars, Parc Monceau, Place des Vosges, Square du Vert-Galant, Bois de Boulogne, Quai de Valmy, just to name a few.

patepicnic

Buying your picnic food can be a challenge. Finding central locations where everything is available can save time and frustration. Your neighborhood charcuterie probably carries most of what you’re looking for but you’ll have to add on a trip to the boulangerie, cheese and wine store.

Happily there are places that offer gourmet cold delicacies and all the trimmings, even dessert. Here are some addresses:

Galeries Lafayette Gourmet, 35 boulevard Haussmann

gourmet1

GLG occupies two floors and offers a home delivery service. A feast for the eyes and the taste buds, cases of mouth-watering delicatessen will have you buying more than you can eat. Fresh produce and specialities from the best international and regional food brands abound. Tasting bars dot the first floor.

 

grandepicerie

Le Bon Marché, 38, rue de Sèvres

A temple of good taste, La Grande Epicerie de Paris sells 30,000 gourmet products.
It’s located on the ground floor of Le Bon Marché, Paris’s oldest department store, where its bakery, patisserie, butcher’s and cheese shop will all urge you to give in to gourmet temptation. Prices depend on the age and origin of the product, so you can just as easily enjoy a delicious lavender macaroon for two euros as bankrupt yourself for a bottle of olive oil.

painAncienne

Marché Bastille

One of the biggest markets in Paris, the Marché Bastille’s food stalls sprawl up the Boulevard Richard Lenoir twice a week. It’s a great source of local cheeses, free range chicken and excellent fish. The piles of fruit, vegetables, saucisses, olives and quiches  are interspersed with stalls offering African batiks, cheap jewelery and bags, discount scarves and linens.

mou

Marché Mouffetard, 139 Rue Mouffetard
A wonderful, narrow crowded market street cobblestones and all. Charcuterie, creperies, cheeses, fruit, flowers, rotisserie chicken, pates, seafood shops wind down the hill. A moveable feast, you’re guaranteed a peek at how it used to be before le supermarche.

 

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The Rooftop Igloos at Galeries Lafayette

15 Sunday Jan 2017

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine, French holidays, Paris guide, Paris tips, Paris Wanderings

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food, galeries lafayette, Paris, restaurants

Paris is very cold in January and it would be unheard of to venture to the open-air top floor of a department store for tapas and a cocktail. BUT, Paris’s innovative department store, Galeries Lafayette has come up with a unique idea by plopping a few heated see-through geodesic domes over the rooftop bar.

terrasse

The concept, brilliant, the view, magnifique. They call it a “cocooning vibe where serenity and tranquility reign supreme”.  Who wouldn’t want that?

ice_cube_bar1

Here’s the menu:

Champagne, cocktails
Soft drinks, fruit juices
Hot drinks
Savoury and sweet tapas
Oysters
Foie gras
Regional French products
Seasonal dish of the day

Continuous service from 11.00 am to 8.00 pm. When they will be removed to make way for spring, I’m not sure.

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, 40 boulevard Haussmann – 75009 Paris

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No Waiting: Make a Paris dinner reservation online

03 Tuesday Jan 2017

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine, Paris guide, Paris nightlife, Paris tips, Paris Wanderings

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food, France, Paris, reservations online, restaurants

Not a new concept, but not everyone is aware that you can book ahead at certain restaurants all over the world. Paris is no exception and the options for each restaurant vary. A very slick service that has a very comprehensive list of establishments is thefork.com (lafourchette.com). They make it easy, just fill in the date and time you’d like to arrive.

il-etait-un-square

Il était un square, 54 Rue Corvisart, 75013 Paris

reservations: https://www.thefork.com/restaurant/il-etait-un-square/36296 or https://module.lafourchette.com/fr_FR/module/36296-5d91d/9283-1da?tracking_id=WGrn9QoQHHcAAKLPSckAAABP#/1042543/dhp

Lunch: de 12h à 15h (sauf dimanche)
Dinner : de 19h30 à 22h30 (sauf dimanche)

Charolaise beef, cooked or tartar, cheeseburger Montagnard, artisanal buns and original recipe small plates.bougn

Au Bougnat, 26, rue Chanoinesse 75004

reservations: http://aubougnat.com or http://aubougnat.com/reservation/

Wednesday – Sunday, 12h à 22h. Monday – Tuesday de 8h à 19h.  Located on the île de la Cité.

Bougnat’s burger is served on homemade bread.  Charolais beef, bacon & Cantal cheese, homemade fries
Panfried beef fillet (7oz), potato galette, foie gras sauce
Roast duckling fillet, sauted mushrooms
Sauteed tiger prawns with pesto sauce, creamy parmesan risotto

gasc

Plaisir Gascon
16 Rue Grégoire de Tours 75006

reservations: http://plaisirgascon.com/reservations-plaisir-gascon.html

Small, cozy, intimate. Beef from Gascony is their specialty.  Superb croustade de pomme with more than a splash of Armagnac

bou2

Boutary
25 Rue Mazarine 75006, metro: Odeon
reservations: https://module.lafourchette.com/fr_FR/module/200520-47ce4#/1337910/pdh

Puréed and smoked potatoes, seaweed butter, cream, caviar.
Crispy basmati rice with Comté , prawn kadaïf, Vermouth Carpano sauce.
Wild cod, seaweed butter & green peas, apricots, verbena-infused foam.
Rib-eye steak, home-made crisps, shiitaké powder, peppered cherry paste.

lev

Le Versance
16, rue Feydeau 75002
reservations: https://www.thefork.com/restaurant/le-versance/3388

Think lobster curry, calf’s sweetbreads and spiced pears. Elegant dining room.

chris

Le Christine
1, rue Christine 75006, 33 1 40 51 71 64
http://www.restaurantlechristine.com
reservations: http://www.restaurantlechristine.com/reservations/

Located between Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Excellent seasonal produce. Indulge in foie gras cooked au torchon [in a cloth], accompanied by delicious stewed red onions with grenadine or fillet of beef. Don’t miss the sweet notes of the tiramisu, a real treat!

canto

Bel Canto
72, quai de l’hôtel de ville 75004
http://www.lebelcanto.com/en/
reservations: http://www.lebelcanto.com/en/bel-canto-restaurants/booking-for-the-bel-canto-restaurant/

Opera is invited to your table at Le Bel Canto. Every evening, a quartet of young opera singers (soprano, mezzo-soprano, tenor, baritone), accompanied by piano, participates in the service of the restaurant by interpreting great arias of opera. The opportunity for you to have dinner with Verdi, Mozart, Puccini, Rossini… You’ll either hate it or you’ll love it.

Dinner & show, without drinks: 85 € fixed price.

Under the category named “cabaret”,  the Paris tourist office recommends the Bel Canto as one of the best live venues for a night out in Paris: a unique show combining opera and French haute cuisine.

The restaurant is located on the banks of the Seine in the 4th arrondissement. Magnificent view from the dining room of Notre-Dame la Seine, île Saint-Louis. Inside, the decor with warm red and gold colors, is dedicated to opera.

After all the eating and drinking you’ll be ready for a nice long walk: No Worries Paris, your best friend.

NoWorriesParis_Christmas

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French Comfort Food Restaurants

07 Wednesday Dec 2016

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine, Paris travel

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#French comfort food, food, Paris, restaurants

restaurantnwpforblog

Simple…..delicious…..filling. Food that’s not an art project. My definition of Comfort Food. Now that winter is approaching, there’s no better treat than entering a bustling jam-packed restaurant, ravenously hungry, ready for the warmth of a good satisfying meal. A few suggestions:

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 

 

 
5 rue de Montalembert, 75007 Paris
Quail stuffed with foil gras…..oooh la la. Legendary.

La Petite Rose Des Sables    6 rue de Lancry
, 75010 Paris
Traditional French dishes. Try the coq au vin. Large portions.

Les Cocottes   135 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris


Try the veal.

Le Volant Basque 


 13 rue Béatrix Dussane, 75015 Paris
Try the beef bourguignon, creme brûlée.


Auberge Pyrénées Cévennes   106 rue de la Folie Méricourt
, 75011 Paris
Cassoulet — the southwest France staple. A big pot of warmth and soul.

Le Bistrot d’Henri 

   
16 rue Princesse, 75006 Paris
Good old liver and onions

Le Calife 

  3 quai Malaquais, 75006 Paris
Exceptional chicken


paris_restaurant

Le Chemise 

   42 rue de Malte, 75011 Paris
Cozy ambiance

La Jacobine 

  
59-61 rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006 Paris
Standout homemade fois gras


L’Ebauchoir 

 
  43 rue de Citeaux, 75012 Paris
Generous prix fixe menu. Tender duck breast.

Miznon 
  
22 Rue Ecouffes, 75004 Paris

A reasonably priced pita place. Lamb kebob is  a winner.

La Coïncidence 

 
15 rue Mesnil, 75116 Paris
Beef, duck, scallops. Great service. Translated menu.

Le Potager du Père Thierry 

   
16 rue des Trois Frères, 75018 Paris
Local organic ingredients, wine. Small setting. Good creamy risotto.

Les Papilles 

 

 
30 rue Gay-Lussac, 75005 Paris
Cauliflower soup

Au Père Louis 



 
38 rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006 Paris
Escargot, cassoulet

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Healthy fix for chilly spring in Paris: lentil soup

07 Thursday Apr 2016

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine

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French soups

lentilSoup

Easy recipe:

3 tablespoons extra–virgin olive oil
2 cups chopped onions
1 cup chopped celery stalks plus chopped celery leaves for garnish
1 cup chopped carrots
2 garlic cloves, chopped
4 cups (or more) vegetable broth
1 1/4 cups lentils, rinsed, drained
1 14 1/2–ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
Balsamic vinegar, ham or sausages (optional)

Heat oil in heavy large saucepan over medium–high heat. Add onions, celery, carrots, and garlic; sauté until vegetables begin to brown, about 15 minutes. Add 4 cups broth, lentils, and tomatoes with juice and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium–low, cover, and simmer until lentils are tender, about 35 minutes.

lentils
Transfer 2 cups soup to blender and puree until slightly lumpy – don’t over swirl and make it into babyfood. Return puree to soup in pan; thin soup with more broth by 1/4 cupfuls, if too thick. Season with salt, pepper, and a splash of vinegar, if desired. For non-vegetarians consider adding some sausage or ham. Ladle soup into bowls. Garnish with celery or cilantro leaves.

Suggest peppery Bob’s Redmill petite green lentils. buy them here

FYI:

With 25% protein,  the lentil is the vegetable with the highest level of protein other than soybeans.

Provides  antioxidants such as Vitamin A and Vitamin C, which bind with and destroy free radicals, reducing oxidative damage to cells.

Have high content of tannins, phytochemicals that prevent cancer growth, making them a good addition to any diet.

Good source of important minerals like iron, magnesium, and zinc. Iron deficiency causes anemia while zinc is one of several nutrients necessary for fending off infections.

Where to get a good  bowl of lentil soup in Paris?

Restaurant Dominique Bouchet
11 rue Treilhard, 8th arr.

Les Papilles 30 RUE GAY LUSSAC
5th arr (not always on the menu) – their delicious cauliflower soup an alternative

 

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Paris: short course cooking classes

08 Monday Feb 2016

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine, Paris tips, Paris travel

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Paris Cooking Schools, Paris food

BabaRum

If you’ve been to Paris countless times and want to mix it up and come home with some authentic French cooking skills, give this list a good look.

At the top of the list is the Valentine Day workshop at Le Cordon Bleu, February 13.

Chocolate and raspberry heart-shaped entremets (a light dish served between two courses of a formal meal)
Rose macaroons
Participants will enjoy a glass of Champagne after the class. 190€ per participant.
Translated into English.
Applicants must be at least 18 years of age.
Price: € 190.00
Address: 8 Leon Delhomme street
Duration: 6 Hours

One of the best culinary schools in the world. Le Cordon Bleu proposes a range of short term culinary discoveries for those with a passion for the art of cooking. A complete description of their short courses can be found on their website.

Francoise Meunier is located in the 2nd arrondissement. The Paris cooking school was opened in 1997 by Francoise Meunier, a pioneer of public cooking classes. During the three-hour class students prepare a three-course meal and then sit down to enjoy the fruits of their labor. Classes are in French, but Françoise speaks English.  Address: 7, Paul-Lelong Street.

chefForADay

A typical French cooking class

Promenades Gourmandes with Paule Caillat offers walking tours of culinary Paris and cooking classes. Classes are taught in Paule Caillat’s contemporary home kitchen, located in an easily accessible historic Marais building. With no more than eight students per class, you will relish an experience that is personalized, friendly and fun. Classes start at 9:00 am with an open-air market tour, followed by a hands-on cooking class and a four-course lunch, finishing around 3 :00 pm.Each class includes a cheese tasting, along with discussion and explanation of the subtleties that make France’s fromage so unique.   Address: 187 Du Temple Street.

International Kitchen gives one day cooking class. And “Cooking Vacations” for 1 to 8 nights. The full day in Paris is a gastronomic experience. Visit a Parisian market with the chef. Learn to cook a full menu. Prices range from $100 to $395 per person, and the cooking courses can usually be confirmed for as few as two people. The lesson takes place in Chef Frédéric’s beautiful apartment kitchen, which is located on the border of the 20th and 11th arrondissements. The class begins in a nearby local market, where you’ll choose your ingredients for your class. Back in the kitchen, Frederic shares some wonderful tips as you create a full menu, including appetizer, main dish and dessert. He will also teach techniques for recreating these wonderful dishes — such as stuffed lamb shoulder and fruit with honey and thyme — at home. After class, enjoy a tasting of everything you’ve created.

L’Atelier des Chefs is one of the best Paris cooking schools. You can select your level of cooking. Also offers 3 hours courses, 4 hours courses. There are five locations in Paris. Check their website for their schedule (in French). Priced right.

cooking_demo_Paris

Atelier des Sens offers 2, 3 hours courses specially designed for the gourmet. Under the guidance of professional chefs, learn basic cooking techniques and actions to master traditional recipes, be it refined or inventive. Fresh market cuisine, local product cuisine, fusion cuisine, gastronomic cuisine, quick meals, introduction to molecular cuisine and a focus on cooking techniques are classes offered. Address: 40 rue Sedaine Paris 11th arrondissement.

Academie Cinq Sens offers midday cooking where you can learn one recipe.  The also offer children’s courses.  65-85 euros. Address: Village royal 25 rue Royale, 8th arrondissement.

Guest Cooking is specially for tourists who want to learn French home cooking. Workshops for kids. Address:  6 Rue Ernest et Henri Rousselle, 75013 Paris

École de Cuisine Alain Ducasse. Learn to cook an entire gastronomical menu. Vegetarian classes, vitamin cocktails, fileting to cooking fish, kids’ course, 3 star cooking of the Riviera. 64, rue du Ranelagh – 75016 Paris

 

 

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Patrick Roger: master chocolatier

24 Thursday Dec 2015

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine

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Parisian chocolatier

This blog segment was intended to be a general listing of Paris’s best chocolate makers. As I delved deeper into my photos, images of the whimsical, bizarre, over-the-top creations of Patrick Roger trumped all. So let me introduce you:

chocolatestingray

Roger is not only master of the confection but has turned his hand to sculpture. Note the sting ray in his window at Place de Madeline. Branching out in the adjoining space are huge thought provoking slabs inviting the visitor to break off a piece and sample. But, non, non, non  – you might get yelled at by the staff if you don’t read the “ne touch pas” signs.

patrickRoger1

His chocolates take on the traditional forms too, all lined up on a counter in the center of the store. Crazy good, with hints of this and that, it’s right here, almost too perfect to eat. But you will and you’ll be back because they’re seductive.

patrickRoger

Go up the stairs and something else will have you guessing. An inviting room with leather sofas, a gallery of bronze sculptures. Roger has been at it again, he’s reinvented himself, his art has taken on yet another form.

patrickupstairs

PATsculpture

Want to know more? Here’s his website http://www.patrickroger.com

The Figaroscope called him “L’enfant terrible de la ganache…” in 2010. He’s tackled Balzac, the Thinker, a 5-ton chocolate “monkeys in the wild”. Wonder what surprises he will be up to in 2016? A real artist to keep your eye on.

Patrick Roger
3 PLACE DE LA MADELEINE
75008

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Paris: Christmas faire extraordinaire

14 Monday Dec 2015

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine, French holidays, Paris News, Paris shopping, Paris travel

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Christmas faire Paris, thingstodoinParis

laDefense

Zip out to La Defense one of these evenings for a little shopping and holiday gaity. Covering almost 3 acres and located beneath the glitzy lights of the esplanade’s skyscrapers,  the Christmas Village with over 350 chalets is the biggest, most authentic one in Ile-de-France.

redball

Fill your bags with a potpurri of unique gifts by craftspeople from across France as well as  Morocco, Tunisia, Kenya, Iran, China and Nepal. Santa will be there for the kids afternoons, from 12pm-5pm on Wednesdays, 12pm-3pm on Thursdays and Fridays, and 12pm-7pm on Saturdays and Sundays, right up to Christmas Eve. Local produce, mulled wine to sip, original fashion accessories, Corsican sausages, raclette cheese,  and the sounds of traditional Peruvian flute music filling the nippy air make this a seasonal must-do.

marcheLaDefenseNoel

By métro

La Défense (ligne 1, and RER line A)
Esplanade de la Défense (ligne 1)
Note: Both stations are in zone 3, but can also be accessed using a T+ ticket or a zone 1-2 only pass by Metro line 1. You can’t go there by RER with 1-2 zone pass.

By train

La Défense can be reached on RER A, Transiliene L, Transiliene U, tramway T2, station La Défense. It can be very confusing but ‘Les Quatres Temps’ is color coded. There are many maps around the shopping center.

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Paris tea time: Stay Calm and Sip

19 Thursday Nov 2015

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine, Paris shopping, Paris tips, Paris Wanderings

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Paris preferred teas

tea_time_Paris

These are stressful times in Paris. A timeout for tea is recommended with two of the local brands that I particularly like: Kusmi and Mariage Frères. Favorites:  Kusmi Detox, Mariage Frères De-Stress (a tea to escape the maddening world). I’ve purchased both at the Bon Marche and Galeries Lafayette epiceries.

kusmi_tea

https://www.kusmitea.com

The story begins in 1867 when Pavel Michailovitch Kousmichoff opened his teahouse in St. Petersburg. By the turn of the century he owned eleven teahouses and sent his eldest son, Viatcheslav, to London to learn about tea. Viatcheslav took over the family business after the death of his father and then transferred the business’ operations to Paris on the eve of the Russian Revolution. He died just after World War II in 1946 leaving his son Constantin to take over a family business much weakened by the war years.

But Constantin didn’t have the same business acumen as his father or grandfather. He was a man who loved life and burned the candle at both ends. An artist and a tea lover, he just didn’t understand figures. On the brink of bankruptcy in 1972 he sold the business for a pittance. In 2003, Kousmichoff was bought by the Orebi brothers who now carry on the tradition. The colorful packaging will tempt you, so will the open tin displays. You’ll find this tea in supermarches, boutiques, department stores and the airport.

Mariage Frères – Rive Gauche, 13 rue des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris

District : Musée d’Orsay – Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Saint-Michel
24, 27, 58, 70, Balabus
Metro: Saint-Michel – Notre-Dame

Tea House: Address: 260 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008

http://www.mariagefreres.com/FR/accueil.html

OF019342

If you’re looking for smooth, this brand with more than 500 varieties is a standout and the one I’m turning to as winter approaches. Start at their website for ingredients:

Their Secrets of the Himalaya line is full of allure:

“Un thé en majesté

Thé noir des hautes montagnes himalayennes aux belles feuilles torsadées, roulées à la main. Riche en bourgeons argentés, il délivre un arôme épicé doublé de senteurs de fruits exotiques.

L’infusion de couleur abricot offre un bouquet sensuel, un fruité malté presque épicé, une fragrance originale, chaude et opulente.”

Shop online or better yet, step up to the apothecary-style display counters at one of their outlets in Paris and tell the expert what you’re preferences are. Have him fill up a sachet and start your tea adventure. A little history:

The tea trade in France began to boom in the middle of the 17th century. At this time, King Louis XIV and the French East India Company encouraged the exploration of distant lands in the search of exotic goods. Around 1660, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage began voyaging on behalf of the royal court: Pierre was sent to Madagascar on a mission for the French East India Company, while Nicolas made several trips to Persia and Indiabefore being named part of an official deputation sent by Louis XIV to sign a trade agreement with the Shah of Persia. Successive generations of the Mariage family remained in the tea trade and in 1843, by then reflecting their experience and knowledge of the tea trade, members of the Mariage family opened their first wholesale shop in Paris.

Henri and Edouard Mariage, in June 1854, founded the present-day Mariage Frères Tea Company. For over 130 years the company was managed by four generations of Mariage tea merchants who maintained a wholesale-only business from their Parisian warehouse. The business consisted of importing premium quality leaf teas from the Orient, which were then traded to first class hotels and tea shops in France.

In 1983 the company transformed itself from a wholesale import firm into a retail company. Under the leadership of Kitti Cha Sangmanee and Richard Bueno, Mariage Frères started opening tea houses within central Paris. The first tea emporium and tea salon, located on rue du Bourg-Tibourg, opened in the same building where Henri Mariage had his offices over 150 years ago. The illusion with 19th-century colonial and exotic furniture, cash registers, counters and tea instruments is nearly perfect. But they all come from the historic former tea office and deposit in Rue du Cloître-Saint-Merri.

Today, the company operates over 30 Mariage Frères points-of-sale within France, the United Kingdom, Germany and Japan. There are four Mariage Frères tearooms in Paris. DeanDeLuca carries it in New York.

mariageFrer5

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Parisian restaurants with exceptional views

09 Thursday Jul 2015

Posted by Trailblazer Travel Books in French food and wine, Paris tips, Paris travel

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Paris tips, Paris view restaurants

Paris Restaurants

Maison Blanche, 15, av. Montaigne, 8th arr., 5 courses for 95 euros. Reservations a must.
Maison Blanche fare

Le Zyriab
Middle Eastern / North African / Lebanese

Institut du Monde Arabe
1, rue des Fossées Saint-Bernard
75005

Le Perchoir Rooftop Bar, 14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75004

Second location BHV roof Marais, entrance at 37 rue de la Verrerie.
From here, you’ll see the grand Hotel de Ville, the iconic Notre Dame cathedral, and have a spectacular view of the sparkling Eiffel Tower in the evening.

Perchoir Marais restaurant

La Bellevilloise  Situated in Belleville, this locals’ favorite offers a beautiful glimpse of the city from above thanks to the hilly nature of the neighborhood. 21 Rue Boyer, 75020

As well as its menu of fresh produce, Le Café du Musée Rodin offers uninterrupted views of the museum’s vast gardens;

Les Ombres, the restaurant at the Musée du quai Branly, has as astonishing glass ceiling overlooking the Eiffel Tower;

Le Ciel de Paris has exceptional panoramic views of Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower, while offering a modern take on classic cuisine.

Take your pick. They all deliver a once-in-a-lifetime memory.

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